Skip to content

February Home Maintenance Checklist: Late-Winter Prep

SeasonKeep Editorial TeamPublished July 4, 2026Updated August 11, 20267 min read

February is the month to get ahead of the melt. Your heating system is still working hard, but the big water event of the year (snowmelt plus spring rain) is four to eight weeks out, and the sump pump that has to handle it may not have run since November. Test it now, knock out the indoor jobs a sealed-up house is right for (radon, railings, cords), and start booking the pros everyone else will be calling in April. Most of this list is under 20 minutes per task.

Our winter maintenance guide covers the whole cold season; this page is what to do right now, in month two.

Test the sump pump before the snow melts

Use the installed pump or controller manual's test method before the wet season. Some manuals permit adding enough water to reach the normal activation level; others provide a labeled test control. From a dry position, confirm that the pump starts, lowers the water, stops, and discharges normally. Keep hands and tools out of a powered pit. Disconnect every power source before reaching into the basin, and use qualified service when the test fails or access is unsafe.

  • Time: about 10–15 minutes when the manual provides a homeowner test. Service scope and local labor determine professional cost.
  • If you have a battery backup, run the controller's labeled self-test and check its battery, charger, pump, float, power, and alarm status. Battery chemistry and replacement age differ, so follow the installed controller and battery instructions. Use qualified service for a failed test, damaged battery, or uncertain wiring.
  • Skip it and: a pump, float, controller, or discharge fault may stay hidden until rising water requires the system.

In cold zones the melt is only weeks away by now; in warmer, humid zones heavy late-winter rain can arrive even sooner. Either way, this isn't the task to push to next month.

Check the boiler while it's still earning its keep

If your home has a boiler, read the pressure gauge or sight glass from its normal viewing position and compare it with the installed system manual. Report a leak, sustained change, or unexplained shutdown. Pressure and water-level targets vary by system, so do not fill, drain, bleed, or adjust it from a generic checklist.

  • Time: about 10 minutes for the visible check. Cost: free to inspect; use a local quote for service.
  • Call for help when: a gauge changes from the model's normal range, water appears around the equipment, or a radiator or zone remains cold.

Forced-air furnace instead? Inspect the accessible filter monthly and clean or replace it when dirty and as its instructions require. Our HVAC maintenance schedule lays out the full year.

Run a radon test under the required conditions

February can be a convenient time for a short-term test because it may be easier to maintain the closed-building conditions in the device instructions. It is not a last chance to test, and a winter result is not guaranteed to be the annual high. If you have a mitigation system, check its warning device regularly and use a radon test to confirm the indoor level.

  • Time: Follow the exact test duration and placement instructions supplied with the device.
  • Skip it and: You will not have a current measurement of the home's radon level. A mitigation system's warning device cannot replace a radon test.

Review trees before spring growth

Leafless branches can make structure and damage easier to see, so late winter is a useful time for a ground-level review. Look for dead, broken, hanging, or rubbing branches; conflicts with the roof, paths, and utilities; and new trunk or root-zone damage. Pruning timing depends on the species, condition, and local disease guidance. The University of Minnesota Extension explains why the right season and cut vary instead of following one national dormant-season rule.

  • Homeowner scope: observe and photograph from the ground. Do not climb, use a ladder or chainsaw, cut above shoulder height, or work within 10 feet of an overhead line.
  • Call for help when: a branch is large, elevated, damaged, over a structure, or near a conductor. Contact the utility for line conflicts and use a qualified arborist for tree work you cannot safely reach from the ground.

If you have solar panels, compare winter production with prior years and look from the ground for new branches shading the array. The effect of shade depends on the module layout, inverter design, time of day, and season. Ask the installer to confirm a meaningful production loss before pruning. Use qualified tree care when the work requires climbing, could contact the roof or array, or is near overhead conductors.

Repeat January's safety walk if it never happened

The railing review and extension-cord audit from January's checklist are useful indoor catch-up work. From a stable floor, look for damage, loose-looking fasteners, or movement under normal hand pressure at handrails, guards, balusters, and installed grab bars. Do not apply body weight or use stairs to test a loose component; stop using the affected area and arrange a qualified repair. Retire any extension cord that is frayed, warm at the plug, or being used as permanent wiring. The electrical walkthrough continues in our home electrical safety checklist.

Plan the big-ticket items before the spring rush

February is quoting season. If January's planning session already covered the water heater record and the energy audit, skip straight to the phone calls. If it didn't, both still fit, and cold weather helps a qualified auditor find air leaks. For the water heater, photograph the rating plate, use the manufacturer's serial-number or warranty lookup, and inspect for water or corrosion. Age helps with planning, but leaks, recurring faults, the exact model, and warranty status matter more than a generic lifespan. The water heater maintenance guide covers the safe next steps.

The one item January couldn't do: get on spring calendars. Tree crews, roofers, and HVAC techs book out fast once the weather turns. A February call gets you a March slot and often a better price.

The full exterior damage check belongs to next month, when winter is actually finished with your house — but if a mild afternoon shows up, nothing stops you from getting an early start on March's walk-around.

Common questions

Is February too early to test the sump pump?

No — it's the ideal window in most of the country. The pit may be dry now, which is exactly why you bring the water to it instead of waiting for weather to run the test. In cold climates the melt is usually just weeks out, and testing in February leaves time to replace a dead pump before it matters.

Can I prune trees in the middle of winter?

Sometimes. Bare branches can make a review easier, but pruning timing depends on the species, local pests and diseases, tree condition, and the work required. Use current local extension guidance and a qualified arborist rather than a national month range. Utility-line conflicts belong to the utility or a qualified line-clearance arborist.

What should I do if my radon test comes back high?

Follow the test instructions and the EPA's follow-up guidance for the result. The EPA recommends fixing a home at 4 pCi/L or above and considering action between 2 and 4 pCi/L. If a home with a mitigation system tests high, check the system warning device and contact a qualified radon professional. A high result alone does not identify which component, if any, has failed.

February's list changes with your house — a boiler home in Minneapolis and a heat-pump home in Atlanta shouldn't be working from the same checklist. SeasonKeep builds a month-by-month plan from your zip code, home age, and actual systems, free to start. And when this month's tasks are done, March's checklist picks up where this one leaves off.